Day 2 - 5th April 2009 - Pahalgam
We were delayed slightly in getting ready – the temperature was so cool around 7-8˚C (compare it to 43˚C in Mumbai) that we did not feel like getting out from the bed. Finally started for Pahalgam at 10.30 a.m. The drive to Pahalgam was very good – mustard plants on either side of the road Saffron is also grown in this route. Once we took the detour from Anantnag, we reached a place which our driver, Ghulam Mohammed mentioned as Bhawar. A gurgling stream was passing – he mentioned it as Lidder River. The view was picturesque.
Left to Right: Mustard Fields on the way to Pahalgam & View of Lidder River in Bhawar
Had booked our stay in Hotel Brown Palace, Laripora Road, Pahalgam for the night. Mr. Ibrahim Raina of Hotel Brown Palace was waiting near the busstand to receive us. We checked into the hotel (a nice one on the banks of River Lidder) – after keeping our stuff, were ready to have our lunch – it was almost 2 p.m. We had seen Hotel Dana Pani on our way to the hotel. It is a pure vegetarian hotel run by a Sardar. There are too many Punjabi dhabas (or Vaishno Dhabas) – but after our experience the previous day in Srinagar, was not ready to take any chance. We just had bread for breakfast. After a great lunch at Dana Pani, we were ready to take ponies to visit Kashmir Valley, Dabian and Baisaran. My negotiation skills were put to test by the pony men. Started the negotiations before going for lunch. Their quote for a horse was Rs. 550/- I started my negotiation at Rs. 100/- (thanks to all my friends in Commercial who have taught this art for the last decade). By the time I broke for lunch, we were at Rs. 500/- and Rs. 150/- respectively. Our negotiations started post sumptuous lunch and finally we agreed at Rs. 300/- per pony. Asked him for 4 ponies (thought our 3 year old son would be accommodated with one of us). After we sat, we found that it would be difficult to hold him and got a separate pony for him. Our journey in 5 ponies started with Wahid, Nasir and Altaf (our pony men).
The journey was steep through the mountains and and these guys walked along with us. Altaf mentioned that in peak season, they would make four round trips in a day. After seeing the Kashmir Valley and Dabian, we were reached in Baisaran. . It was a great and must see place – I would not forget this place in my life time.
Wahid, Nasir and Altaf in the photo
Photos of Baisaran
Had a great experience in the night. The manager of the hotel provided us with electric heaters to keep the room warm. During the middle of the night, there was a drop in voltage and the heaters went off. The room was pretty chill and woke us up. After sometime, we slept due to tiredness under three quilts.
Day 3 - 6th April 2009 - Pahalgam
We got up in the morning and took a stroll by the banks of Lidder River. The sound of water flowing was nice to hear. We met Mr. Haji, father of Ibrahim Raina and the owner of Brown Palace. He was talking about snowfall that morning and asked us to warm our hands with the Kangri (wooden basket with some burning coal). The Hotel Manager the previous night on other places to visit. He suggested going to Aru and Chandanwadi. The Pahalgam taxi guys do not allow taxis from Srinagar to ply in and around Pahalgam. So, we took a local taxi and went to the market to have our breakfast. Again, without hesitation, had our breakfast in Dana Pani.
After our breakfast, we proceeded to Chandanwadi. Trek for Amarnath yatra starts from this place. It is a 16 Km drive from Pahalgam. Our driver Mushtaq was a very nice gentleman. He was mentioning about his family and his association with Ibrahim. On our way, it started raining. When we reached ChandanWadi, it was raining. The locals there were having umbrellas and Mushtaq helped us in getting couple of umbrellas. We were at the bottom of snowy mountains had a view in rain / snowfall and started our journey to Aru.
L to R: With Mushtaq in Chandanwari, View from Chandanwari & Betaab Valley
Aru is 12 Kms from Pahalgam through ghat road. It was raining heavily. We just had a view of Aru in rains – had a cup of tea and started driving back to Pahalgam. Mushtaq was kind enough to take us to Mamleshwar temple which is couple of kilometres from Pahalgam. Also saw Gowrishankar temple which is on the main road.Made a last visit to Dana Pani for lunch. After thanking the owner, started our journey to Srinagar.
Enroute, visited Mattan temple which has a pond of holy fish. Also, a gurudwara is situated in the same complex. Awantipura ruins, ruins of Vishnu temple built by Kind Avantivarman is on the way – it is maintained by Archeological Society of India. Spent the night in Blooming Dale in Srinagar.
Day 4 - 7th April 2009 - Gulmarg
Left Srinagar at 9.30 a.m. Reached Gulmarg at 11.30 a.m. It was snowing while we got down from the taxi. Bought boots on hire and also hired two sledges. Walked through the snow to reach Gondola. The road from the taxi stand goes straight to the Gondola. You can walk also. There are two stages in Goldola. The first is called “Kongdori” which is at a height of 3050m and the second is “Apparwat”. Snow had stopped by the time we reached Gondola.
L to R: Snowfall in Gulmarg & Way to Gondola through snow
Got the tickets and got into the Gondola. The moment we were in, snow started. It is a 7 minute ride to Kongdori. Once we reached Kongdori, we came to know that due to poor visibility and weather, the ride to Apperwat is cancelled. But, had fun in Kongdori – played in snow – was there for an hour and then took the Gondola back to the base.
The sledgeman was waiting to take us back to taxi stand. Walked through the snow – saw a ski instructor going around with his skis.. negotiated with him for Rs. 250/- for an hour (both for rentals as well as instruction). Have some previous experience (going for about 10 mtrs without falling !) – improved my experience and went for about 25 mtrs. Kudos to his instructions... After me, my wife also tried her hands and she too had improved her skiing.. Once we finalised our ski guy, we found our taxi guy had come all the way to Gondola searching for us (it was getting delayed for him I suppose). Settled the ski guys (including the usual tip of course), came to the boots shop to return the boots and get back to our original ones – surprised that the guy in the boots shop also wanted “tip” – says, the money you paid will go the owner and you should give us “tip”. Had to pay him something. It was almost 5 p.m. We all were very hungry. Was looking for some decent food – went to a vaishno dhaba (all are vaishno dhabas only). Told him that we are hungry and also short of time – so any item which is faster would do. He said, will give aloo paratha with dal and mix veg as well as fried rice. Believe me, the food was excellent. We did not have such a wonderful food during our stay in Kashmir. After thanking the guys profusely, we started back our journey to Srinagar.
Pranav making his snowman & I can ski a bit !
Friends in Romania can see where "Otelul" has reached - 3050 mtrs above sea level- atleast there it is on top ! For others, Otelul is a football club in Romania sponsored by ArcelorMittal Galati.
We were in a dilemma whether to go to Sonamarg the next day or have a break, spend day in Srinagar and go to Sonamarg, the day after. It was decided to spend the next day in Srinagar, move to a houseboat and then visit Sonamarg. On the way back, checked with Mr. Firdous whether it is possible to have a look at the houseboat. He told, it was getting late (7.30 p.m. by then) and would show us the next morning. Reached Firdous’s place – couple of us felt like having dinner – again to Krishna Dabha – had food and was back to sleep.
Day 5 - 8th April 2009 - Srinagar
As it was to be in Srinagar, we were lazy to get off from the bed. Climate was also very bad. It was raining heavily. After our breakfast, we decided to have a look at the houseboat. All of us were taken by Mr. Firdous in his Wagon-R. The houseboat was called “Golden Bell” and was managed by Mr. Ghulam (another Ghulam – we already had two drivers) and his family. The boat was good and after negotiating the rates, we asked him to fix a “buhari (a boiler) as there were no heaters.
Shifting of luggages got over by almost 1 p.m. Post our lunch at Krishna Dabha, we decided to take the shikara ride due to uncertain weather. Negotiated the shikara ride at Rs. 250/-. It started raining the moment we were in the shikara. It was raining on and off. The first stop was in Nehru Park. Saw Golden lake, Char Chinar, House Boat where Hindi movie “Mission Kashmir” was shot and also was explaining some places where certain movie songs were shot (I’m bad at movies and that too Hindi Movies am a big zero – so, said ok to him).
Shop in the Dal Lake on the left and a defunct houseboat (reportedly with 6 rooms on the right)
As it is customary for the shikara man, he took us to a shop on the houseboat. Not much interesting to shop on. Back to the houseboat. It was almost 6 p.m. We thought we have couple of hours to shop – considering shops close at around 8 p.m. But, we asked for some tea from Mr. Ghulam. He took his own time and by the time we left the place, it was almost quarter to 7. Some shopping and dinner. Night at the houseboat.
The day was ruined due to the rains and as we had only one day at our disposal, decided to go around Srinagar and keep Sonamarg for our next visit.
Day 6 - 9th April 2009 - Srinagar
As we had decided to stay put in Srinagar, this day too started off bit late. Adding to that, salesmen queued up at the drawing room of the houseboat. Mr. Ghulam was certifying every one of them. After purchase of some churidhar material and driving off other vendors, started our day. Crossed through shikara and went to the taxi stand just opposite to the house boat. Finalised the taxi at Rs. 1,000/- for Shankaracharya temple, all three parks (Nishant, Shalimar and Cheshmashahi) as well as Hazaratbal Shrine. Shankaracharya temple is located on a hillock and we can
drive upto a particular place. After that, need to climb about 240 stairs - constructed well that only 11 stairs are continuous. Apart from the temple (where Shankaracharya meditated), the view from the top is worth climbing those stairs. Due to security reasons, camera is not allowed – captured the pictures in mind. Photo on the left is the view of Dal Lake from the hills (on the way to Shankaracharya temple).
At Nishat Bagh, we had lunch. Ok Food. Went around the park – they maintain it well.
Next was Shalimar Bagh – similar to Nishat – good park – spent some time there.
Went to Hazaratbal Shrine. I had heard of it during militancy in Kashmir. Terrorists holed themselves in the shrine and were attacking forces. Women are not allowed beyond a limit. Unfortunately, prayer was on. It would take 15 more minutes. As it was almost 5 p.m., decided to leave.
Visited Cheshmashahi. It is famous for fresh water spring. The driver told that during the days of Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, former Prime Minister of India, a helicopter used to carry this water daily for him and his daughter, Indira Gandhi. Wonderful place.
Later, paid a visit to Pari Mahal, school of astrology founded Prince Dara Shikoh, Emperor Shah Jahan's eldest son who was killed in the war of succession.
Went to Firdous’s place. Had tea and he took us for purchases. Spent couple of hours shopping. He dropped us back at Krishna Dabha. As there was heavy crowd, we took parcel and left for houseboat.
Day 7 - 10th April 2009 - Srinagar - Delhi
The day we had to say goodbye to Kashmir. Again this morning, there was shopping in the houseboat. After dress materials, some earrings etc were purchased. I purchased a gram of Saffron (Kesar) for Rs. 250/-. Mr. Firdous had arranged for a sumo to pick us up from Shikara stand to the airport. Enroute, we went to his place, said goodbye to him and his housekeeper, Mir and proceeded to the airport.
With Mr. Firdous in the picture of the left ; With my father and Ghulam bhai who manages Houseboat Golden Bell
Srinagar airport has three tier security. Before entering the airport, all baggages are screened. I later learnt that you cannot carry any cabin baggage other than camera and ladies handbag. Fortunately, we did not have lots of hand baggage and hence was easy. Took Jet Airways flight to Delhi.
Comments
1. Though there are some problems in Kashmir, tourists are not targeted. Thousands of people thrive on tourists for their daily bread and butter.
2. Kashmiris are very friendly. Infact, we lost a mobile in an autorickshaw and realised it only the next day. On calling the number, the driver picked up the phone, told us where he was and gave it back to us.
3. You need to tip a lot. I remember a fellow tourist mentioning it should be renamed 'Cash'mir.
4. Try to go preferably in the beginning or end of the season to avoid crowds.
5. Do not look for package tours. There are thousands of houseboats (see my photo taken from the route to Shankaracharya temple). You can find any one at a better bargain.
6. Put your bargaining skills to test for hiring ponies / sledges. Some gains out of bargains can be used to tip the pony / sledgemen.
front of Lotus temple in the picture (right side).
Gandhi). It was almost 3.30 p.m. and only Red Fort was pending in our list. The driver suggested not to go there (as it is located in crowded Old Delhi and even if we are to see it from outside, he would not advise). So, went to Humayun Tomb, spent some time and reached Hazrat Nizamuddin station to catch August Kranti express to Mumbai.. Our 24 hour tour of Delhi was over !
